From Kashgar, you may take a bus to Yecheng, which is 260km closer to Tibet. The ride took us 5h45min. We arrived late, so the PSB office was closed. We stayed at the hotel at the back of the bus station(20-30Yuans/person). It is possible to get a shower, but you must ask and it is outside the hotel building. Don't be shy, it might just be your last one for quiet some time.

Next day, we got up early, sot the PSB wouldn't see us and got a taxi to drive us to Aba(town, 6km away) where the turn off for the road to Ali is(road 209). We had the taxi take us about 5 Km down this road to get us out of the local traffic. To catch the early trucks, you must be on that road by 5:00am. They have a long haul and they start early.

For 500Yuans, we got a ride all the way to Ali, in a 2-3 years old truck. This year, the rates were around 400-500Yuans/person for the ride. A good truck makes the difference between making it or not...

The journey took us 8 days, because of heavy rains which almost completely destroyed parts of the road. We travelled in early September 2000, not during the rainy season but it was a particularly wet year.

Normally, most truckers will make it in 4 days, some in three but that means very long kick ass days.

The Army truck will not bother with you, while you're hitching on the road. They will even wave at you and who knows you might be able to catch a ride with one of their truck.

Once you left Yecheng, you have nothing to fear before arriving in Ali, no more check points or PSB office.

On the first day, we went up two passes. The first one was at 3000meters. We had lunch on the other side in Kudia, a military base village with small shops and restaurants serving the famous Uyghurs: langman(mutton soup with tomato sauce and vegies).

The second pass was at 4850meters, we had gone 220km by then and the sun was setting low in the sky. We were all a little headachy, and were happy to see that we were dropping down to Mazir which is 3725meters high and at 244km from our starting point. There isn't much there contrary to what we had expected. We were there late, but didn't see any shops or restaurants.

The second day, we climbed up to another pass at 4850meters at km marker 309. We went down again and reached a small military base-village 4120meters where we slept that night. We had gone 490km by then. Before reaching this place we did stop for lunch in Xaidulla, but I didn't take note of its altitude or its location. Xaidulla is also a military-village with shops and restaurants.

The third day, we went up a 5000meters pass as we were passing the 534km marker. We had reached the high plateau of Aksay Chin and were just about to get stuck for a few days at this altitude because of unusual mud and road floads.

On that day, we reached Tholing, which is a trcuk stop with a few shacks acting as restaurants, not unlike the previous ones we had ate at. It is a beautiful place with a lake and a mountain. We saw our first Tibetan lady and you may have your first momos there if you wish. Tholing is about 650km away from Yecheng.

Once you reach the 715km marker, you are on top of a 5100meters pass, which is the boundary to Tibet and is marked y a post decorated with prayer flags. Another 15km will take you to the first Tibetan post where you may find food and lodging. Nothing extravagant of course, but better than sleeping under your truck.

I don't remember seeing much from there to Domar which is at km marker 835. In Domar, you may find more shops and restaurants. From there(3:00pm) the raod was very good and our drivers decided to drive all evening and all night until they reached Ali at around 6:30am. They had lost many days due to the bad conditions of the road.

We were left a few km outside of Ali, to not draw attention to our driver. We first found a hotel and then turned ourselves to the PSB office. WE paid a 300Yuans fine for violating Chinese law and had to pay 50Yuans for a permit that was good for Ali district,which comprise Kailash, and Manasarovar.

They were very helpful to us but we've also heard otherwise by other travelers so be nice and apologetic. Some people think they can hide to avoid the fine. It is very difficult to hide, in a town where everybody knows everybody. People who try are not only fined but also returned with a reduced visa. Not worth it.

We hitched our way from Ali to Shigatse, slowly, taking different rides allowing us to visit Tithapuri hotsprings, Kailash, and Manasarovar.

We paid 440Yuan/person for all the rides we took compiled, which took us all the way to Shigatse. From there the bus is cheaper and more comfortable than the back of a truck. By the way get ready for some pretty painful ride if you sit on the back of a truck. If you can manage sitting in front, don't hesitate it will save your ass,literally.

The Check points: Barga: Passport checks-no concern Paryang:Passport checks-no concern Raka:The only check point, we heard of that was causing problems to tourist hitching from Lhasa to Ali. The other way was supposed to be less of a problem, but we didn't get to experience it. Shegar:Passport check-no concern Lhatse:Passport check-no concern

All these check points are more concerned with Tibetans than Foreigners. They are not part of the foreigh police. The problem seems to be with the PSB deciding on the bright sunny day to setup its office right in the middle of the road without notice. Their favorite spot this year was just south of Shigatse. They'll fine you and let you go through in exchange a promise or two.

I had a real problem with the sudden gain and loss of altitude the first day on the raod. The fact that we were stuck for a while above 5000meters certainly didn't help any. Nevertheless, it is wise to have a good stuck of Aspirin for you and the drivers and helpers on your convoy.

Some people die each year on that road. Diamox might help, but it won't save you. I personnaly was not well at all for 12 days and I can assure you that I will not attempt that route anytime soon. Don't forget that you lose your altitude acclimatisation very quickly, 3 days. Don't assume that coming from Pakistan or Kyrgyzstan will it easy for you. I had just come from hiking in Kyrgyzstan for two months. All that said, my husband had just a few headaches and sleepless nights but felt mostly fine the whole time.

The scenerey is great, the Chinese cops not after your ass as much as people like to say and you find yourself away from it all. Illegality in China is very relative and Yecheng-Ali is way too remote for any PSB officers. Nobody wants to take the risk of altitude sickness except crazy backpackers like us.

Janne the Swede we met in Kashgar has his own web site.

When the mud was the thickest we met Uli. He's got a great site with some good photos too: Pedal Global

Take Care and Good Luck!!!