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Wylie and Helene
Hitching Across Tibet

The Late Great Tibet


Tibet


Propaganda

Propagande

Le gouvernement Chinois publie sa propagande. On y apprend les abus commis par la hierarchie monastique tibetaine du passe. Pour devenir un Lama(Eveque), il ne suffisait que d'acheter ses titres, et non pas atteindre un certain niveau de savoir spirituel.

* * *
The Chinese government publishes its own propaganda concerning Tibet. It details the abuses committed by the Tibetan hierarchical monastic orders. For example to become a Lama, one had to buy his many titles and not necessarily become a fountain of wisdom and knowledge about Buddhism.



Une Porte Entre-Ouverte

A Crack in the Door

L'argent d'un monastere servait a payer de hautes rentes aux Lamas, alors que les moines avec des titres de moindre importance devaient quemander ou travailler pour subvenir a leurs besoins.

* * *
A monastery's money was mostly distributed amongst the Lamas leaving the simple monks with the only option of begging and doing some extra business on the side.



Peacking Through The Key Hole

Un Trou Dans La Serrure

Les pauvres fermiers etient forces a la servitude par le monastere de leur region. Tout ceci me parait en conjonction avec le passe de plusieurs autres cultures et de ce fait me parait tres probable.

* * *
The poor farmers were forced into servitude by the monasteries in their region. All of this parallels the past of many European Cultures and therefore seems plausible to me.




Chinese Soldiers helping Tibetan Women

Cooperation?

Le probleme fut que Mao decida de les sauver de leur servitude, bien contre leur gre, en y abolissant toute pratique religieuse. Les resultats de la Revolution Culturelle qui s'en suivirent furent devastateurs: 1.2 millions de morts; la destruction de 6254 monasteres; l'absorption des 2/3 du territroire Tibetain dans le territoire dit Chinois; 100,000 Tibetains dans des camps de concentration; famines rampantes due a la culture forcee de riz et de ble qui ne croient pas en haute altitude; interdiction du port des bijoux ou autre apparats consideres extravagants par les autorites chinoises.

* * *
The real problems started when China, under Chairman Mao, decided to save the Tibetans from themselves. The results of the Cultural Revolution were drastically devastating. 15,000 dead in the streets of Lhasa during the first week of "liberation". To date a total of 1.2 millions Tibetans have died; 6254 monasteries were destroyed; much of the Tibetan territory was absorbed into the Great main land China; 100,000 Tibetans ended in concentration camps for "re-education"; starvation was rampant due to the enforcement of the rice and wheat cultivation instead of barley, which is the only grain that can grow at these altitudes.



Coming Into View

Une Vue Eclairee

Aujourd'hui, le gouvernement Chinois aime se venter d'avoir retabli la pratique religieuse Tibetaine! Comme si elle avait disparu. Ils defendant la possession de photos du Dalai Lama, le chef spirituel des Tibetains, et ce par quiconque, meme les monasteres. Ils ne se genent pas pour detruire les Koras qui se trouvent sur le chemin de la "reconstruction" fanatique, laide et pseudo-moderne chinoise.

* * *
Today, the Chinese like to brag about having restored Tibetan religious practice, as if it had ever disappeared in the first place. Meanwhile they are banning the possession of Dalai Lama pictures. They aren't shy about destroying any highly Religious areas of town to make place for their big reconstruction.



A Less Than Complimentary Portrait

Un Portrait Peu Flatteur

Ils se permettent d'ordonner des lois qui affectent grandemnt la vie monastique Tibetaine. Dorenavant, il est interdit aux jeunes de moins de 18 ans de joindre un monastere. Les nouveaux moines ne pourront plus resider au monastere, augmentant ainsi les couts de la vie monastique et donc reduisant le nombre de novices pouvant joindre ses rangs. Des moines-espions font leur apparition dans les divers monasteres assurant la dispersion de la propagande chinoise et l'elimination des elements nuisibles(pro-Dalai Lama).

On refuse d'emettre des permis aux moines afin qu'ils visitent les sites sacres de leur territoire, comme le Mont-Kailash. Nous avons rencontre deux Americaines dont le camion de vivres cachait un Lama qui desirait se rendre a Kailash. Le risque etait grand pour tout ceux impliques. Les routes du Tibet sont couvertes de barrages policiers permanents(check points), dont le seul but semble de trouver des dissidents...

* * *
In fact they make laws which negatively impact the Tibetan monastic life. From now on no one under 18 of age is allowed to join a monastery. New monks won't be allowed to live in the monasteries' compounds, which will greatly increase expenses and thus make it difficult for many to join. "Spy-monks" have been introduced in most monasteries. They are used to better disperse Chinese Propaganda and eliminate undesirable elements, such as those who are pro Dalai Lama.

They refuse to issue permits to most Lamas and monks for them to visit some sacred sites on the Tibetan territory. We met two Americans who were hiding a Lama in their food truck who couldn't get such a permit to visit Kailash. This was a high risk for all involved. The Tibetan roads are covered by checkpoints, which sole aim seems to be controlling the movement of people and catching such dissidents.




A Sad Vista

Un Triste Paysage

Ils ne permettent plus aux etudiants d'aller prier aux temples pour l'obtention de bons resultats durant les sessions d'examens. Les maisons Tibetaines sont toujours a risque de se faire fouiller pour la possession d'une photo du Dalai Lama ou la presence d'un autel d'adoration dans leur maison privvee. On interdit egalement a ceux-ci toute offrande lorsqu'ils visitent les monasteres, sous peine de perdre leur emploi. Heureusement que cette loi n'affecte en rien les nombreux nomades et fermiers du Tibet qui se font l'honneur de preserver cette tradition des plus importante. Meme le Jokhang qui continue de respirer de devotions reste ferme aux Tibetains, certains jours. Plusieurs chapelles leurs sont dorenavant innaccessibles et aucun rassemblement n'est permis sur le parvis du Jokhang.

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Students are not allowed to go to their temple to pray during examination sessions. Tibetan houses are searched on "Anonymous tip" to find a Dalai Lama picture or a shrine. Tibetans have been banned to make offerings while visiting monasteries, or else they will lose their job. Fortunatly, the nomads and farmers have nothing to lose and make their duty to keep this tradition very alive. Even the Jokhang, whose devotional spirit is unequalled, is only open to local Tibetans during certain hours, while its chapels are usually closed. Although tourist groups, especially from mainland china, have greater access. No gathering of Tibetans on the Barkhor are allowed for fear of organized revolts.



The Hidden Face

La Face Cachee

Tout ceci la propagande gouvernementale omet d'en parler. Ils se depeignent plutot comme les sauveurs d'un peuple opprime. Encore une fois je suis surprise par le pouvoir d'une propagande bien organisee et a son effet convainquant, non seulement sur la population chinoise, mais egalement les jeunes Tibetains eux-memes.

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This is what the Chinese government chooses not to say. They describe themselves as saviors. Again, I am appalled at the power of propaganda and its pervasive effects not only on the Chinese population but also on some of the Tibetan youth.



The One We Repress

Celle Qu'on Reprime

La forme de "leadership" exercee par la Chine sur le Tibet me parait arrieree et immature. Sans doute savent-ils que sans l'usage de la force, le Tibet ne serait pas leur. Ils veulent pouvoir capitaliser sur les ressources naturelles qui s'y trouvent. Afin de calmer les ardeurs de l'opposition politique de l'Ouest face a la Chine, on a offert au Canada, aux Etats-Unis et a la Suisse, entre autres pays, leur part du gateau.

Sans doute sommes-nous tout aussi responsables que les Chinois de cette nouvelle servitude Tibetaine...

* * *
The type of leadership offered by China is old-fashioned and immature. They know that without the use of their swords, Tibet wouldn't be theirs. They are now too interested in the natural resources to let go. To calm the International Opposition to their invasive practices of Tibet a few countries were offered a piece of cake, notably the honorable Canada, Switzerland and USA.

Perhaps are we just as responsible for the new servitude Tibetans find themselves in.




Always on the Surface

Revient Toujours A La Surface

Heureusement, les pratiques religieuses et la devotion Tibetaines sont toujours tres vivantes un peu partout. Par example, le Jowkang qui est le monastere-temple le plus sacre du Tibet, continue de respirer de devotion. On y prie, chante, et pleurt du leve au couche du soleil. On s'y prosternent de gratitude ou en imploration. Des Tibetains de partout s'y retrouvent revetus de leurs plus beaux atours.

* * *
Luckily, religious practices never died in this holyland. Nothing will ever kill it. For example, the Jokhang in Lhasa breaths devotion. It is the most sacred Monastery-Temple of Tibet where one may pray, sing, repeat mantras, cry and prostrate oneself, from sunrise to sunset. Tibetans come from all over the country, dressed in their most beautiful attire. If they can't gain entrance, they gather by the front doors or circle round and round the outside.



Jokhang, The Beautiful

Jokhang, La Belle

Je m'y suis senti vite emue. J'ai eu l'impression d'y pleurer l'humiliation d'un peuple, sa peine et sa devotion. J'ai suivi les pellerins dans leurs rituels et me suis prosternee trois fois devant leurs multiples images religieuses. D'abord pour les Tibetains, ensuite pour tous les peuples victimes d'oppression, et enfin pour trouver de la compassion pour ceux qui oppriment.

* * *
I was deeply touched by the Jokhang, who wouldn't be. I couldn't hold back my tears. I felt as if I was crying the humiliation, sorrow and devotion of a people. I joined the pilgrims in their rituals. I prostrated myself three times in front of the many religious images. Firstly for the Tibetan people, Secondly for all oppressed people, and Thirdly for finding compassion on all oppressors.



History Haunts Us

Pour Nous Hanter

J'ai repete ce rituel plusieurs fois avant de realiser que dans mes propres veines coulait du sang d'oppresseurs(Francais) et d'opprimes(Canadiens-Francais, Irlandais). Ce qui me repulse tant dans l'attitude du gouvernement Chinois est sans doute la presence de ma propre tendance a opprimer ceux-celles que je ne comprends pas.

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I repeated this ritual many times before realizing that blood from both oppressors (France) and the oppressed (French-Canadian, Irish) mixed in my veins. Perhaps what disgusts me the most about the Chinese Government's attitude is my own tendencies to repress people for whom I can't find compassion and understanding.



Merci Duga

Grande Finale

Cette jeune dame ma adopte alors que je visitais Ganden(monastere). Elle m'a prise par la main pour ne la laisser que deux heures plus tard. On a partage nos collations, notre lunch et nos emotions.

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This woman adoopted me while I was visiting Ganden Monastery. She took my hand and showed me around for about two hours. We shared ours snacks, lunch and emotions. I met many wonderful Tibetans and I love their hearty and full spirits. I will say prayers for them as they continue a difficult transition.



Learning the Ropes

"Young lamas at the Tashilhunpo Monastery in Xigatze read books about Tibet. With a booming tourist trade in Tibet, the youngsters are hoping to become tour guides who speak Tibetan, Chinese and English and work at the large monasteries."

Article found in "China Daily" Newspaper. 13 Aug. 2000




No Apologies

As China becomes more prosperous, many people are now taking vacations, including to Tibet. We spoke to a few about what has happened in Tibet.

Most felt that Tibet was part of an extended Sino family, and was truly a part of China. Concerning the Cultural Revolution, they pointed out that the rest of China suffered far greater devastation to their traditions and religions than did Tibet. Even today, Tibet enjoys much greater religious freedom than other parts of the country.

The Cultural Revolution was something that all Chinese suffered, not just the Tibetans. And no, they personally did not feel any need to apologize. They did have sympathy with the continued religious persecution in Tibet, but ALL Chinese are facing religious persecution.



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I am the Walrus
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To the Valley Below
  Wylie and Helene - List of Journals
  Hitching Across Tibet - Intro Average Rating of 42 Viewers
Chapters of Hitching Across Tibet
  Preparations
  Kashgar to Aksay Qin
  Aksay Qin to Ali
  Tirthapuri Hot Springs
  Mount Kailash - Insurance
  Mount Kailash - Death
  Mount Kailash - Rebirth
  On To Lhasa
  Pellerins / Pilgrims
  Gompas
  I am the Walrus
  The Late Great Tibet
  To the Valley Below

       

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