Comment expliquer les difficultes que j'ai eu a me rendre au Drolma-La(col). Respiration halletante, le coeur dans la george, la tete qui m'explosait, la nausee et le manque de sommeil n'ont certainement pas aide. Pour rendre les choses plus difficiles encore, mon systeme immunitaire avait choisi ce moment opportun pour me faire defaut, me laissant avec une fievre.

J'ai bien cru etre venue au Tibet pour y mourrir. Je me sentais differente, un peu plus et je perdais la boule.

Au cours du trajet vers le sommet, j'ai ete souvent tente de rebrousser chemin et ma mouman me manquait terriblement.

* * * How to describe the struggle to arrive at Drolma_la pass!

I had real difficulty breathing, my heart was pounding in my throat and my head felt like a pressure cooker with no escape valve. Nausea and little sleep didn't help. To top it all off, my immune system chose this auspicious time to relinquish its responsabilities and left me with fever and chills. I was wondering if I hadn't come to Tibet to die. I also somehow felt different. Maybe I was losing my marbles?

All along the Kora, up to the pass, I was very tempted to turn back. Wishing for my mommy big time.

Durant l'ascente, j'ai eu l'impression de subire des attaques d'asthme multiples. J'y ai developpe une grande compassion pour tous les asthmatiques du monde et pour Josee plus specialement. Tous les Tibetains me depassaient, que deux vieillards avaient choisi de rester derriere et me suivaient de pres. Quelques touristes m'avaient prevenu que Dromla-la etait beaucoup plus facile a atteindre que ce que je m'imaginais. Je ne cessais de penser a quel point c'etait l'exercice physique le plus eprouvant que j'ai jamais entrepris.

* * * During the ascent it felt as if I was having multiple asthma attacks. Everybody was passing me except for two old Tibetan pilgrims who were walking nearby, and they at least were smiling! Many westerners had told me how easy it had been for them despite all their apprehensions. I kept thinking it was the hardest physical effort I had ever undertaken.

Aussitot arrivee, je me suis perchee sur un rocher en-dessous des drapeaux de priere et me suis promise de ne plus bouger ne serait-ce que d'un centimetre. La senteure de l'encens qui brulait me reconfortait. Le son des cloches que portent les Tibetaines et les chants religieux me rappelaient que j'y etais parvenu.

* * * When I arrived at the pass, I sat down and held onto a rock under some prayer flags and refused to move for a while.

The smell of incense burning comforted me greatly. The sound of the bells worn by Tibetan women and their religious chanting reminded me that I had made it and was still on earth.

Quand j'ai finalement retrouve mes forces j'ai observe l'activite du Dromla-la. Les Tibetains prenaient une pause-cafe et partageaient leurs provisions ainsi que quelques gateries avec les autres pellerins. Ils se sont tous prosternes devant Dromla-la, residence de Shiva ainsi qu'en direction de Kailash, residence de Sakyamuni.

* * * Finally I mustered enough energy to observe the commotion happening all around.

The Tibetans were having picnics and sharing their provisions as well as a few sweets with one another. New arrivals all made a few prostrations Drolma-la, the residence of Shiva and Sakyamuni.

Les Hindoux en ont fait une veritable messe avec encens et tout.

* * * The Hindus were having a good time with incense, bells and chanting.

Tous les pellerins etaient heureux d'avoir atteint Dromla-la et cette joie etait tres contagieuse.

Le ciel etait completement degage, pas de vent et un soleil brulant. Les Dieux devaient etre heureux aussi.

* * * Everybody was happy to have made it and all that joy was very infectious. We were all in a good mood.

The weather was absolutely glorious. There was no wind, a cloudless sky and a warm gentle sun. The gods were smiling too.

En marchant de l'autre cote de Dromla-la, je me suis appercu que je n'avais plus aucun symptome. Au meme moment ce joyaux turquoise faisait son apparition.

* * * As I walked to the other side of Dromla-la, I realized, as this turquoise marvel came into view, that all my symptoms had disappeared.

En descendant, j'ai laisse mon moi-malade derriere et me suis reuni avec mon moi-en sante. Je ne m'etais pas sentis si bien en douze jours. J'avais conquis mes peurs et me suis sentis libre.

* * * When I started the descent into the Brahmaputra valley, I left my sickly self behind and rejoined my healthy and strong self. I hadn't felt this well in twelve days. I had conquered my fears of altitude sickness and was feeling strong and liberated!

Nous avons marche plusieurs kilometres cette journee-la. Plus rien ne pouvait m'arreter. Sans doute devrais-je refaire le Kora tout en me prosternant, comme ces deux Tibetains...

Je ne m'etais jamais imaginer subir une telle transformation grace a Kailash. Je suis heureuse et satisfaite d'avoir comprise une fois de plus le pouvoir de la peur et son influence sur ma vie et le monde.

* * * We walked many kilometers that day. Nothing could stop me now. Maybe next time I'll join these two pilgrims and circumbulate Kailash while prostrating...

Never did I imagined the Kora would transform me. Yet here I now sit, in Lhasa, happy and content, having understood once again the power of fear and its influence upon my life and the world.