The passage from the hills of Tibet (5000 meters) to the Nepalese lowlands (1300 meters) is a thrill. The descent begins in the interior of Tibet at the Tong La pass, some 50 kilometers before the majestic Himalayan peaks that mark the actual border.

* * * La route qui mene du plateau Tibetain (4500 meters) aux plaines Nepalaises (1300metres) est excitante. La descente commence au Tibet au col Tong-la (5200metres) situe a environ 50km de la majestueuse chaine Himalayenne qui sert de frontiere.

Most of the Nepal/Tibet watershed divides along the border, although at this location a deep cleft has formed and a river from Nepal has snaked a finger up into Tibet. The Tibetan soil in this watershed, like sand in an hourglass, spills out to the Nepalese plains below.

* * * Une ouverture dans les montagnes est apparue au fil du temps et a permise le versement, d'une petite portion isolee du sol Tibetain, dans la plaine Nepalaise. Un peu a la maniere d'un sablier.

Once you cross the Tong La you begin to hurtle downwards. The small stream next to the dirt road becomes a bounding river. All the while, in what seems like an optical illusion, you are actually approaching the base of the snow capped peaks.

* * * Alors qu'on commence la descente, nous suivons un minuscule ruisseau qui tranquillement se transforme en une large riviere. La descente nous enmene aux pieds de sommets enneiges, tranquillement mais surement.

Soon the valley walls grow steep and their color changes from barren brown to a lush green. As the gorge deepens waterfalls appear, cascading from shear walls. The air becomes moist and fragrant. I hear bugs chirping for the first time in months.

* * * Plutot rapidement, la vallee se transforme en une veritable george dont les murs sont verdoyants de vie. Des cascades en tombent a intervals irreguliers. L'air devient humide et parfumee. On entend nos premiers criquets depuis notre entree au Tibet.

Our last night in Tibet is spent just a few kilometers from the border in Shangmu, a sprawling village clinging to the canyon walls. The town is vibrant with traders, foods and aromas from China, Tibet, Nepal and India all mixing in the streets. There is also a fancy tourist hotel, brothels and a throbbing disco.

* * * Nous avons passe notre derniere nuit au Tibet dans un village situe a 8km de la frontiere Nepalaise. Shangmu est un village commercial "agrippe" aux murs du canyon. On y retrouve les odeurs, et les visages de Chine, du Tibet, du Nepal et de l'Inde. Tous s'y rassemblent attire par le "business" qu'offre une ville frontiere.

Goodbye Tibet, you are in my dreams and prayers.

* * * "Longue Vie A Un Tibet Libre", furent les derniers mots d'un Americain marchant a nos cotes alors qu'on traversait le dernier poste frontiere nous liberant de la censure chinoise.