The next morning we jumped in a twin engine turbo prop and busted a gut to get to Mulu.

Flying over Borneo is staggering. We read about it. We study it, but somehow seeing is another level of reality. The rivers run blood red from the silt that washes in from the illegal logging camps. The remnants of old growth rainforest dot the landscape like a patchwork quilt stitched together in the cold sweat, late night nightmares of developers, politicians and crooked forest managers.

It’s hard to believe how little primary forest is left of the majestic island of Borneo. Flying over the island tells the tale.

There’s virtually only one place to stay in Mulu, the resort. You buy it all as a package in Kuching, flight, guided tours and a stay at the resort. So we obliged and went for the package.

The airport near Mulu is little more that a tarmac strip and a formality of a building with employees meant to get you to the resort as fast as possible.

When you arrive you can hardly believe your eyes. The resort is amazing, but the obvious nagging questions kept crowding my enjoyment. How did this get here in the middle of all this? Who brought the construction materials? How much forest has been destroyed in the name of eco-tourism? How eco-friendly is it anyway? How many people visit here? Is it sustainable? These are the things that occupy my thoughts.

Irregardless, it is hard to avoid enjoyment and relaxation in the middle of such beauty. Shortly, we were shuffled to a mini-van and on to park HQ.

There we met our guide who accompanied us to the famous Deer Cave. It was there that I witnessed one of the most incredible biological phenomena I have yet to experience: the exodus of millions of bats on their nightly forage to consume several tons of insects! The light crept behind a craggy veil as we stood in awe of the winged mammals.

With craned necks we watched thousands upon thousands of ravenous insectivorous chiropterans as they spiraled from their chthonic depths in search of their six legged entrees. I thought it would never end. I kept checking my watch. Over a half hour later they dissipated. But not before a bat hawk dove and dined on a few succulent winged mammals mid air! Absolutely incredible!

By dark it was time to retreat to the resort and guzzle a few Tigers, which we did happily. The sun set as we glimpsed nocturnal birds and moths from the porch of a local food stall. A delicious plate of nasi goreng was the perfect ending to a spectacular day.

Our time was growing short. Almost time to go home. But we had one last sight to see.

The next morning we shuffled to meet our guide. A boat up the river would take us back to the caves. Once we arrived we shuffled in and hazed at the spectacular stalactites, columns, and flow stones. Beauty every where we turn.

Stand still and turn around. What do you see? Well, Abe Lincoln of course! The famous stone formation if viewed from a certain angle will reveal the silhouette of the great President! Move a little and it disappears. Magnificent!

Outside the cave an enormous snail about the size of the palm of my hand caught our attention.

A boat trip back to the resort and the cool evening showers began.

Then next morning we packed up and prepared for the trip back to Kuching and finally back to Kuala Lumpur.

One last look at the hazy mountains, one last look at the resort, one last night in Kuching, and we’re on our way back to Kuala Lumpur.