Arriving at the ashram the next morning, we are again met by the welcoming committee. After handing out name tags, we start the day off with a game of Bulldog in the play yard, which is soon a hot, sweaty, dusty bowl filled with shrieking kids. Then we set up several activity stations while Madhu, Bubu and Papa split the kids into groups. I have the art station at one end of the prayer room, while James has Connex and Pick Up Sticks on the other side. In the courtyard Chandler, Tracy and Caroline lead tug-of-war, hopscotch and jumprope. Baxter plays ultimate frisbee with groups in the yard.

Some of the kids produce some real artwork, drawings and colorings and even freehand cartoons that are incredible.

When we break for lunch, Papa explains why the children go to the new school he helped start. Driving one of the boys to school on his scooter one day, they passed a bus of school children. The children leaned out the window and began to laugh, yelling, "Slum kid! Slum kid!"

This broke my heart. Sometimes it's easy to forget the very real problems these kids face in a society still influenced by the caste system, where they are still "untouchables" to many, especially in such a small town as Cuttack. It is an ostricization I can't imagine, with a loving home and education that Papa and the Miracle Foundation provide as the only answer.

The day is hot, the air sticky, and lunch sits heavy in our stomachs. We go to take rest for the hottest part of the day - Chandler and I upstairs to the apartment, where Mama sits and talks with us a while. She asks about Chandler, obviously happy that I have brought her - how old she is, what level in school. Mama strokes Chandler's face and pats her hair, calling her "my sweetie." It's a nickname that sticks, as Chandler will only be known as "sweetie" from this point forward.

The bell rings for prayer. We all go up to the room, taking off shoes at the threshold. The children line up cross-legged on the floor mats, boys on one side and girls on the other. The horn blows, and a hundred-plus voices chant: "Om...om...om..." A drum beats and the singing begins. It's magical, all these little voices rising into the air. The song ends with "Shanti, shanti, shanti." Peace to the world, peace to the universe, peace to every heart.

After prayer it's time for something really special! Baxter has made a movie from last year's trip and has connected his laptop. A sheet to serve as the screen is unfurled from the ceiling. As the movie is played, the room is filled with laughter and poking and pointing. We watch it twice - the children are enthralled and amused by the video of themselves.

Afterwards, at dinner, Papa comes around to give seconds and thirds. If you say, "No, Papa, I have plenty," or, "I'm full," he will merely say, "OK, you take just one!" You learn quickly to take only the smallest portion the first time around, as more will quickly be heaped on your plate.

As soon as we're done and the kids have washed their dishes, they're upon us again. Santosh takes my arm. "Dance," he says. "Come, watch dance." Chandler and Baxter and I traipse into the boys' dorm where Santosh and 7 or 8 other boys are dancing like crazy. I have never seen Santosh like this! He's usually very reserved and quiet, sometimes moody and withdrawn even - but I've never seen him ham it up and take center stage like this. He's jumping around, really getting into it, taking his outer shirt off and twirling it above his head as we laugh and clap.

After a while, the girls have to get in on the action. They drag us all to their dorm, a radio is turned on, and they're off. Charu, Sangeeta, Saraswati and Santa lead the pack, and even some of the younger girls like Daina and Sibani join us. Ultra-shy Mami and Sumi cling tightly to Chandler, occasionally jumping down to dance. The second they catch one of us watching them, though, they giggle and run off to hide. Tiny Papuni stands off to the side, trying to follow the big girls' movements and dance steps. It's so adorable.

Soon Baxter and his son James are dragged in, and they start jumping around the dance floor too. This encourages Santosh, Tapas, Govinda and other boys to jump up and start dancing. Soon it's like a mosh pit in the room, everyone dancing like it's the heyday of Studio 54. All we're missing is a strobe light.

In the middle of all this, I catch sight of Mama walking in. She stands watching for a moment, her lips pressed together and her brow knotted. The she shakes her head and just turns and walks out without a word. Caroline and I look at each other and laugh. She's the disapproving house mother who would still rather pretend she didn't see anything, than break up the party.