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Shelley Seale
Return to India - 2006

Udaipur - City of Lakes

Friday - 10 Mar 2006
Udaipur , Rajasthan - India


Udaipur

Udaipur is one of the most lovely places I have ever seen in my life. It rivals Venice, in its own Indian way. There is the same decaying aspect to parts of it like Venice has, and then of course the requisite rickshaw drivers, cows and monkeys filling the streets - but it's not nearly as crowded, noisy or dusty as other parts of India I have visited. And Udaipur has a much more exotic flavor to it than Venice.

But it is also a land of water. The town is old, with very narrow lanes winding tightly between buildings that line the hills similar to small European villages. Then there are the palaces and lakes. The most famous is the Lake Palace, an intricate white structure which seems to float majestically in the middle of Lake Pichola, Asia's largest man-made lake. As it turns out, our hotel and our room have a gorgeous view of the Lake Palace. There is also the Monsoon Palace perched at the top of the overlooking mountains, and the City Palace which is India's largest maharajah quarters. This charming place has captivated me from the moment I laid eyes on it and I'm already thinking I could spend weeks here, months.





Our hotel, the Udai Kothi, is exquisite. Once a royal residence itself, the circular drive and fountain in front introduce a detailed exterior with carvings and tile, jewel and mirror inlays. Carved white arch windows and doors look out onto a breathtaking and peaceful garden. Everything about the place is serene and inviting. There is no way to be stressed in a place like this. If a person was agitated here, he should just check himself into the nearest hospital to await his imminent heart attack or ulcer.

As we have arrived very early from the overnight train, our room is not ready yet, but we are greeted warmly with juice and led to the rooftop terrace. Here there is a magnificent pool, sitting alcoves with floor pillows, a restaurant, and of course magnificent views. So many words come to mind to describe this place. Exotic. Stunning. Happiness.





The City Palace complex in Udaipur seems endless. The grounds are lavish, leading down to the lake where boats take passengers to the Lake Palace or the island beyond it, Jag Mandir. We board one, slowly skimming across the water and seeing Udaipur from a different perspective. It simply gets more spectacular and charming by the moment. We come alongside a turreted white marble terrace, where women wearing formal sarees are dancing. The boat slows as we watch the elegant and graceful dancers, their colorful sarees billowing around them.

Surrounding us in the small canal are homes with incredible gardens and terraces, bridges, steps leading down to the water, and centuries-old temples. Under a huge triple stone gateway arch, women perch at the steps to wash their laundry while an elephant wanders by.





The boat heads farther out into the lake, closer to the Lake Palace which was built by Maharajah Singh II as a summer retreat from Jaipur. Its gleaming white marble looks like a wedding cake floating in the middle of the lake. On the other side of the palace we reach Jag Mandir, an island built by a prince of the royal family when he went into exile. Huge stone elephants with royal red and gold dressings greet us as we dock. Off to the side, flanking the elephants, is a two-storied terrace filled with low tables and floor pillows, a hookah centered on each table. Behind all this is a 3-story, intricately carved stone temple in which the history of Jag Mandir rests. The entire scene conjures images of maharajahs, royal processions, banquets and dancing girls.

Udaipur has cast its spell upon me.




March 11

The next day we visit Shilpgram, a traditional craftsman and artisan village where many different regions of India are represented. Each region has huts or houses built in the style of its area, with musicians or folk dancers, and the artisans whose trade has been passed down through generations. The Shilpgrams are important cultural centers, and it's fascinating to visit. We meet many craftsmen, some of whom proudly show up photos or newspaper clippings of their fathers or grandfathers winning awards.




From Shilpgram we head to the Monsoon Palace, built by the royal family to escape the deluge of the rainy season high in the mountains. So many palaces, for every season! We enter a wildlife sanctuary in order to reach Monsoon Palace, and stop for the magnificent views of the city below, while monkeys swing from tree to tree around us. Other sight-seers arrive, including a group of Indian college students who we befriend after taking snaps of each other.

Loud music fills the air with a heavy bass beat. We look around to see 3 Israelis with their guide in a souped-up tuk-tuk. Spotless white and red vinyl seats with heart inlays, and a huge speaker behind the seats connected to an incredible sound system pumping rap music. We take a photo, in case there's ever a reality TV show called "Pimp my Rickshaw."

At the entrance to the Monsoon Palace, a large family of monkeys greet us. The monkeys have taken over the abandoned and crumbling palace and, used to humans, pay us no attention as they play or groom within feet of us. The palace has attracted a large crowd of Indian and Western tourists here at sunset. The vistas from all angles are stunning. We explore with our college buddies. Manish is the leader, cracking one joke after another. "Can you imagine the maharajah doing toilet?" he asks as we pass the bathroom. Manish lives in Udaipur and his friends are all college students visiting from Mumbai. They buy us chai, and we sit on the low turret wall and watch the sun disappear over the town below.





Our last night in Udaipur is, unsurprisingly, magical. We walk to an open air ampitheater and watch a traditional dance. Musicians accompany graceful women who use small symbols, pails of water balanced on their heads, and fire as they dance. It's mesmerizing.

After the dance we stroll back along the winding paths to Udai Kothi, talking to various people we meet along the way. There are many French, Dutch and German transplants who live here in Udaipur. Back at Udai Kothi, we eat dinner on the rooftop restaurant while musicians drum and sing in the background. Suddenly, fireworks light up the sky above the lake. It's spectacular, and the perfect ending to our time in Udaipur.



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Jaipur - The Pink City
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  Shelley Seale - Bio and Journals
  Return to India - 2006 - Intro Average Rating of 5 Viewers
Chapters of Return to India - 2006
  Welcome to India: The Taj Mahal
  Jaipur - The Pink City
  Udaipur - City of Lakes
  Back to Papa's Home
  First Day
  Tuesday
  Happy Holi!
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