Gypsy Journal - Mount Kilimanjaro, Tanzania, Africa

Day 1 - Le Jacaranda to Lemosho Glades.

We started our climb on Sept 01. Our guide, Steven Mtui, met us at Le Jacaranda Hotel and we picked up supplies and crew along the way. All members of our crew (8), the most amazing people that we've ever met, were from the Chaga tribe and worked together as 1 seamless team. We checked into the Park at the Londorosi Gate and proceeded to the Lemosho Glade Trailhead to start our climb. Our crew carried our 50+ kg of gear/supplies as well as their own. Steve coordinated resupplies of fresh food and and garbage disposal along the way and made sure that all were in good health.

At the Lemosho Trailhead, there were many porters looking for work. In our case, we had our full complement, so many went home without the work that they hoped to get.

Our cook, Hamisi, prepared lunch for us and insisted that we eat as our crew prepared the gear from the climb. Before we knew it we were taking our first steps up Kili!!!

Day 1 - Lemosho Glades to Mti Kubwa.

Our first day took us through a rain forest - no rain though (trip ain't over yet, Lucky). The vegetation was very lush and birds serenaded our hike. We saw Colobus and other monkeys (no Mickey Dolenz, though) as well as a large number of Norweigian hikers (there were 14 of them, all marching in a row, with a much bigger entourage than we had - 3 guides and about 50 other crew!!) We were dry & warm - a great start to our trip.

Day 2 - Mti Kubwa to Shira 1.

As we climbed out of the rain forest and congratulated ourselves for missing the rain (Rick actually believed that we might achieve a dry climb - stupid Rick), the clouds started to look a little ominous. Despite Janet's suggestion to don our rain gear, Steve and Rick told her to relax - Hakkuna Matata. Well you know the rest. The singing actually took our minds off of our progressively wetter and wetter feet. Our rain ponchos were great at directing water at and below our knees. The kicker was that we all had rain pants and gaiters that stayed nice and dry in our nap sacks ;-( After clearing the rain forest, we went up and down a couple of hills of the Shira Mountains and entered the Shira Plateau. There used to be a mountain here, but its associated volcano erupted, creating a crater that was later filled with lava when Kibo erupted. Now it's a flat plateau. 5 or 6 years ago, sparks from a camp fire (which are now banned) burned all of the vegatation that grew on the plateau - the remais of the larger burned stumps are still visible. New vegetation has since taken it over, and if not for the burned stumps, you'd never know it burned.

Day 3 - Shira 1 to Shira 2.

We got our first view of Uhuru Peak today - it looked much closer than it actually was. We dried our gear in the wind and the sun - it took almost no time, except for Janet's boots... Good thing that we brought a spare pair.

We crossed the flat Shira Plateau and camped near a ranger station from which Steven radio'd our tour operator to advise that we actually might make it.

... doesn't smell!!

Day 4 - Shira 2 to Moir Camp.

Today we climbed a relatively gentle slope almost to Lava Tower, following the acclimatization credo of climb high, sleep low. Highlights included RAINLESS clouds / fog that blew past us as we climbed and great views of Uhuru Peak. Just before Lava Tower, we descended to Moir Camp and a dessert - it didn't look much different than the Fraser Valley in Canada or Arizona, USA.

Moir Camp is off the beaten path, but that's what we were after. Our crew beat us there again, set up camp and had the usual hot water for washing and lunch. After unpacking, we took a short afternoon hike with our Camp Chief and enjoyed parts of the rarely taken and technical Northern Circuit.

Day 5 - 2nd day at Moir Camp.

We were supposed to proceed to Lava Tower, but Steven convinced us to take a rest day, see a part of the Northern Circuit and hike to Arrow Glacier Camp tomorrow (bpassing the windy Lava Tower Camp).

We slept in, didn't have to pack & repack (YAY!!) and took a nice hike up the Lent Group.

Day 5 - 2nd day at Moir Camp.

Rick just had to climb the highest of the Lent Group Peaks. Now this was gonig to be a Class 3 (use hands and feet) climb. About 100' from the top, the hail came. We hurried down to camp and the faster the went, the stronger it hailed!! We took refuge in the tent and wondered if it was going to let up before night fall. The hail accumulated on and around our tent, and despite the downpour, our crew was clearing it off and building a ditch around our tent to redirect the melt water (if it ever got that warm). Lickily, the weather subsided, and we got a chace to see the dessert dressed in hail.

Day 6 - Moir Camp, past Lava Tower Camp to Arrow Glacier Camp.

Our camp at Moir was located just west of the the cliff face that you saw above. Since the sun rises in the east, that means that it has a way to go before hitting our tent. This natural phenonmenon inspired the Nanuk pose in the accompanying photograph.

We hiked back up to the trail that we descended to Moir Camp from and continued up to Lava Tower. The cold was starting to dominate the day despite the sun. Around 1100 hr, clouds rolled in, or more correctly up, and you could feel their dampness and temperature drop as they sped by. At Lava Tower, you could see the sloped and windy campsite that Steven wisely advised we shold avoid. Elated climbers were yelling from the top of the tower of lava after what looked like an amazing climb up.

Day 6 - Moir Camp, past Lava Tower Camp to Arrow Glacier Camp.

We finally got to the tent city at Arrow Glacier Camp. This was the busiest and coldest camp yet. We were above 15000 ft and all of the campers here (except us) were going to bed early to get up at around midnight for a nightime ascent up the Western Breach to summit Uhuru Peak (the top of Kilimanjaro) around sunrise.

98% of those attempting to summit Uhuru Peak start hiking around midnight and hike through the coldest part of the night. We had specifically chosen to camp at the crater about 400' from the top so that we could stay warm in our sleeping bags during the night, and summit during the day.

Day 7 - Arrow Glacier Camp to Crater Camp via the Western Breach

The Western Breach. No matter how much you read or hear about it, nothing prepares you for this 3500 ft wall of rock, starting at better than 15000 ft elevation. Up to this point, the mountain was probably more beautiful than most things that we've ever seen. The Western Breach was awesome, breathtaking, surreal.

The sun had not yet come over breach, so we were drawn to Mount Meru in the west, peaking over the clouds.

It was cold and crisp; and the air was thin. Breathing was hard - you didn't get the usual amount amount of oxygen. Just getting dressed was an effort.

Day 7 - Arrow Glacier Camp to Crater Camp via the Western Breach

The Western Breach. Okay, we've avoided it long enough. We have to go up this wall. It had snowed up here over the last few days, so the trek was slippery and treacherous. Stopping for lunch was an excuse to rest. This is our only picture during the hike. It took us 7 hours to complete.

Day 7 - Arrow Glacier Camp to Crater Camp via the Western Breach

We finally got off the wall into the wide expanse of Summit Crater and the most amazing glacier. Very different than the breach wall, but equally spectacular. Despite our exhaustion, this fresh site renewed our strength and we took a couple of picutres before retiring to our tent - and we had the whole crater to ourselves. This was a new world. The sun was so bright, that you couldn't see without glacier glasses. The air was so thin that you literally got less than half of the oxygen that you get at sea level - and no strength to summit (climb high, sleep low). We each got a low grade altitude headache that we treated with trusted, tried and true Mortin (no we weren't paid for the plug), sleep, and lots of water (until it froze). Although spectacularly beautiful, this was not an easy place to be/sleep. Although Janet didn't feel like dinner (a condition of being at high altitude), Rick wolfed down mushroom soup and and pasta with a bean and vegetable sauce before passing out.

25 years ago, Rick bought some down pants that were on sale that he hadn't worn yet. Tonight was the night to break them in (& they still fit!!) - they sure kept him warm!

Day 8 - Summit Crater to the Top of Africa and down to Mweka Camp.

Morning was rough at just shy of 19000 ft - Rick was missing his daily dose of oxygen. Packing the 1 boundary bag that we took to the top was a major effort. Our heads were buzzing, and despite the proximity to the peak, this was going to be a challenge. As you can see from the picture, Janet was up for it...

Day 8 - Summit Crater to the Top of Africa and down to Mweka Camp.

Now from Summit Crater to the Summit is about the same as from Peel and Sherbrooke to the top of Mt. Royal and we run that in about 40 minutes return - it's that oxygen thing again. It took us 1:45 to do less than that favourite Montreal run!! It was hard slugging. Putting 1 foot in front of the other was the order of the day, with the head buzzing in the background. But we made it - a dream come true! The views from the top of Africa were amazing, and we had the whole summit to ourselves. Everyone else forgoes the extra night in the crater for a midnight ascent and throngs at sunrise. We had a, let's call it night's, sleep, summited during the day and had the whole thing to ourselves.

We took a few pics and started our 10,000 ft descent to Mweka Camp.

Day 8 - Summit Crater to the Top of Africa and down to Mweka Camp.

The first 3000 ft of the descent was steep and scree, so despite our trekking poles, we each made less than soft landings a few times. How do people go up that at night still amazes me. We eventually saw Barafu Camp - those that ascend from the south side of the mountain all camp here - there were at least 100 tents!! And they all ascend at night on that steep scree - it just doesn't fit into my brain! We did good, Batman. As we descended into the land of oxygen, our headaches disappeared and as the terrain became less steep, our pace quickened. Our crew had lunch waiting for us at Barafu Camp (getting dirty looks from those that had yet to summit). We ate and continued down to Mweka Camp for the night.

Day 8 - Summit Crater to the Top of Africa and down to Mweka Camp.

During our descent from Barafu Camp, we passed a group from the UK - 29 climbers!!! All marching in a row, like army ants. Their group, including crew, was about 150!!!! Not my idea of a pristine ourdoor experience.

From then on, it was pretty quiet.

Day 9 - Mweka Camp to Mweka Village

We slept WARM!!! It was warm when we got up, and our lungs floweth over with oxygen. We were also pretty dirty. After our last breakfast on the mountain, we trekked our last 7 km back to civilization.

Speaking of civilization, these 2 women blew by us, each carrying about 30 kg of fresh grass tied in banana vines to feed their cattle. We just don't know how good we have it!!

Day 9 - Mweka Camp to Mweka Village

This was indeed a bittersweet moment. We just spent the last 9 days living a dream with 8 strangers who became rafiki (friends). We're off on safari, and they're back up the mountain with another set of clients.

THE END.