Top five causes of nausea:

1) High speed ferries across rough waters

2) Small boats in rough waters

3) Grotty hotels

4) Strange brew

5) High speed ferries back across rough waters

You guessed it, even though our trip to this tropical paradise was paradise, there was a subtle but consistent queasy theme that pervaded the experience.

Stone Town was a delight with a beer at the Africa House for sunset followed by a trip to the mezmerizing nightly food fest in the Jambiani Gardens (cheap too!!).

We figured that Annie had just enough time to have one last safari experience--snorkelling with the dolphins off the south coast. It was a magical experience for four of us as we had some very close encounters with a family of dolphins. As we got back in the boat after our third dip, we quickly realized that the other ten of our boat-mates were drip dry...and green! A few attempted to share our enthusiasm, giving the thumbs up as they turned away for a final hurl overboard.

White sands, blue waters, fresh fish, and plenty of sunshine awaited us at the remote north coast beaches of Kendwa. Our biggest decisions for the next seven days were which SPF lotion to apply and whether to have the Kingfish or the Talapia (poached or fried?) for dinner.

It was time to say farewell to Anne in Kendwa with a birthday cake and a small dinner party on the beach complete with our new-found Canadian friends. The next morning as Anne's boat sped off, we waved from the beach knowing she'd be missed. As she drifted out of sight, we reminisced about the times we shared for a moment and turned to one another and said, "Pass the SPF 15" ;)

The rest of the week seemed just like a real honeymoon. We even extended our stay a couple of days. But, before long, it was time to face our five-day/night journey back across Tanzania to Uganda...boats, trains, and automobiles here we come. After three days and nights in an African sleeper train in the middle of Tanzania, we felt very much in touch with the spirit of the country.

But, the segment of this journey we will remember best was the ferry across Lake Victoria. After three nights on the train, to our horror '2nd class sleeper' on the ferry meant sitting upright crammed into a small room of cafeteria-style benches with 300 or so new African friends. Luckily, the first officer was a bit of an opportunist and, after some time, accepted our money and gave us his cabin for the night. We'll consider that $8 the best money we spent the whole trip!!

After a final pass through Uganda, we made our way back to Kenya to catch our flight to India. Due to an airline screw-up, it took three days, five flights, and six countries to arrive in Mumbai at 11:30 at night feeling a bit feverish...but that's a whole other story!!