From Ouzoud, I continued downward to reach Essaouira, about 470 km away. Essaouira was a beautiful port known for strong winds. It had a fortified harbour with fishing nets laid out on the quayside, boats unloading their catches and stalls serving seafood sizzling on grills. The strong winds blowing from the Atlantic Ocean had made it a surfers' paradise.

I stayed at a hotel near the sea. One fine morning, I went out and was surprised to find out that I was all alone except some seagulls and cats. I watched the strong waves beating the fortress walls and fishing boats returning with a trail of scavenging birds. It was a wonderful sight indeed.

Back to Casablanca

On 40th day, when it was 4th August 04, I returned to Casablanca covering about 3,500 miles and blowing away around $ 2,000. As my flight was next day, I covered one left-over item in my program. It was a hammam, a public bath. During my previous stay in the same city, I had marked one, Hammam Ziani, and went straight for it. For a small amount ($ 5), I was soaped, scrubbed, messaged and rinsed by an attendant. I felt fresh when the sand of the desert and dirt of the towns were washed away but the memories left in tact.

Hafeez ur Rahman Malik